Beauty Packaging Systems

1. Executive Summary

The 7 most important insights

Regulatory baselines have shifted. EU’s new Packaging & Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR)is in force (Reg. (EU) 2025/40), with general application from 12 Aug 2026. It hard‑codes recyclability, recycled content, and waste‑reduction requirements that push beauty toward mono‑ material designs (PE/PP) and away from complex assemblies. [1]
US MoCRA now governs cosmetics. Facility registration and product listing are live; fragrance‑allergen labelingis progressing via FDA rulemaking (timelines in the Unified Agenda). Expect label reworks once FDA finalizes allergen list/thresholds. [2]
EU allergen labels expand dramatically. Reg. (EU) 2023/1545 adds 56 allergens to Annex III with long transition periods (legacy SKUs comply by 31 July 2028). Audit perfume/essential‑oil inputs and update INCI disclosures. [3]
EPR fees are real P&L line items. UK EPR base fees invoice from Oct 2025 (for 2024 data), and UK Plastic Packaging Tax is £223.69/tonne from 1 Apr 2025for plastic < 30% PCR. US state EPR (OR live 2025; ME/CO/CA phasing) adds reporting and eco‑modulation pressure. [4]
Recyclability pathways exist but are specific. APR, RecyClass, OPRL, and How2Recycle provide do/don’t lists. HDPE tubes with controlled EVOH and HDPE caps/shoulders can be compatible with HDPE recycling; many pumps remain problematic unless metal‑free / mono‑material designs are used. [5]
Compatibility first, design second. Essential oils, solvents, acids, and preservatives can craze PET/PMMA, attack elastomers, or corrode springs. Airless & contact‑surface material choices matter as much as brand aesthetics. Verify via bench compatibility + ASTM D3985/F1249. [6]
E‑commerce + DG realities. Perfume/high‑alcohol formats are UN1266 Class 3 flammable liquids; shipment often uses Limited Quantity provisions. Pair ISTA 3A / 6‑Amazon with ADR/IATA. [7]

3–5 recommended actions for designers

Standardize on mono‑material builds (PE/PP) for tubes & caps; explore metal‑free pumps; run APR/RecyClass checks at concept stage. [5]
Build a claims/label change pipeline for EU allergens and US MoCRA allergens; refactor INCI templates to absorb longer lists. [2, 3]
Instrument EPR cost forecasts per component (material, colorants, labels, pumps) across US/EU/UK; test swap scenarios. [4]
Codify compatibility testing (accelerated aging + ASTM D3985/F1249) before committing to elastomers/springs/inks. [6]
E‑commerce‑proof the pack (ISTA 3A / 6‑Amazon) to cut D2C damage and returns.

Key risks (12–24 months)

Label reworks (EU allergens; US MoCRA) compress artwork timelines.
PPWR recyclability grades alter acceptable designs from 2026–2030+.
Ongoing UK EPR/PPT drive unplanned cost; US EPR ramps.

2. Definitions & Concepts

Primary packaging — Direct contact (tube body, pump/valve, jar & closure).
Secondary packaging — Cartons/inserts that group/protect primary packs.
INCI — Ingredient naming convention for cosmetics.
PAO symbol — Open‑jar icon with months of safe use (EU/UK). [8]
EPR — Producer pays for end‑of‑life management of packaging.
APR / RecyClass / OPRL / How2Recycle — Recyclability design & labeling bodies.
OTR/WVTR — Oxygen/Water vapor transmission; typically ASTM D3985 / F1249.
PPWR — EU 2025/40 replacing 94/62/EC.
GMP (ISO 22716) — Cosmetics manufacturing practices. [8]

Concept map (bullets)

Regulatory envelope (EU 1223/2009, US MoCRA, UK retained law) → Label/claim rules (EU 655/2013; FTC Green Guides) → Artwork/layout (GS1, FPLA).
Format choice (tube/pump/jar) ↔ Product properties (pH, solvents, oils, viscosity, actives) ↔ Contact materials (PE/PP/PET, elastomers, springs) ↔ Compatibility tests (aging, OTR/WVTR).
Sustainability (APR/OPRL/How2Recycle/CEFLEX) → Design rules (mono‑material, labels/inks) → EPR fees (UK/US) → Claims & substantiation.

3. Standards, Regulations, and Governance

3.1 Authoritative overview (US/EU/UK)

EU: Cosmetics Reg. (EC) 1223/2009 (PIF, RP, labeling). GMP via ISO 22716. Claims: Reg. 655/2013. Fragrance allergens: Reg. (EU) 2023/1545 (+56 allergens; transitions). Packaging: PPWRin force (application Aug 2026) with recyclability grades and reuse targets. [8, 3, 1]
UK: Retained 1223/2009 (OPSS guidance), EPR base fees Oct 2025, PPT £223.69/t (<30% PCR) from 1 Apr 2025, OPRL for on‑pack recyclability. [4]
US: MoCRA adds registration/listing, SAE reporting, GMP rulemaking, and fragrance‑allergen labeling. Labeling under 21 CFR 701/740 and 16 CFR 500; environmental marketing per FTC Green Guides (update in progress). [2, 9]

3.2 What differs by region (snapshot)

Topic	EU	UK	US
Cosmetic base law	Reg. (EC) 1223/2009	GB retained 1223/2009 (OPSS)	FD&C Act; MoCRA (2022)
GMP	ISO 22716 (harmonized)	ISO 22716 referenced	FDA GMP rulemaking under MoCRA
Claims	Reg. 655/2013 common criteria	Mirrors EU criteria	FTC Green Guides; NAD case law
Fragrance allergens	+56 (Reg. 2023/1545) with 2028 transitions	Following GB policy (watch OPSS)	Forthcoming FDA list via MoCRA
Packaging law	PPWR 2025/40 (applies Aug 2026)	UK EPR & PPT	State EPR (OR 2025; ME/CO/CA phasing)
Recyclability labeling	Country‑specific; GS1 + national schemes	OPRL rules	How2Recycle + state constraints (e.g., CA SB 343)

3.3 Known upcoming changes (watchlist)

EU PPWR implementing acts for recyclability performance grades (from 2026).
US MoCRA: final GMP and fragrance‑allergen labeling rules (post‑comment).
UK EPR: fee modulation/RAM and PPT indexation (2025–2026).

4. Evidence Base & Benchmarks

Evidence note: Barrier numbers vary by grade, thickness, RH/temperature, and orientation. Treat below as screening ranges; confirm with supplier data and lab tests to ASTM D3985 (OTR) and F1249 (WVTR).

Material (film)	OTR (cc/m²·day·atm)	WVTR (g/m²·day)	Notes
HDPE	Order: tens–hundreds (grade‑dependent)	~4.7–7.8 @1 mil	WVTR per typical converter tables; confirm grade.
PP (cast)	Similar order to PE	~9–11 @1 mil	WVTR typically higher than HDPE at same gauge.
PET (biax)	Often lower OTR than PE/PP	~16–20 @1 mil	WVTR higher than HDPE at 38 °C/90% RH.
EVOH	Very low OTR (excellent)	22–124 @1 mil	OTR depends on ethylene content & RH; WVTR high.

Dispenser (pump) outputs & features (indicative)

Pump type	Typical dose/stroke	Notes
Lotion pumps	~0.7–4.0 mL	E.g., Silgan ReVive 2 cc & 4 cc; recyclability‑acknowledged designs exist.
Fine‑mist/serum	~0.1–0.3 mL	Often metal springs; seek metal‑free or PE pathways (e.g., Aptar Future).

Tube technology benchmarks

HDPE tubes + HDPE caps/shoulders with controlled EVOH: compatible with HDPE recycling per APR/RecyClass when design conditions are met (density, label/ink, barrier %). [5]
Precedent: Colgate’s HDPE toothpaste tube (APR recognition, 2019) scaled; demonstrates sortability and downstream processing potential.

Neck finishes & torque

Common continuous thread finishes (e.g., 24‑410) trace to GPI/GCMI dimensions; validate against supplier prints for thread depth/land width and liner compression. Evidence is often behind paywalls—rely on converter drawings.

Barcode & text legibility

Use GS1 General Specifications for x‑dimension, quiet zones, and placement; follow 16 CFR 500 for US net quantity sizing and EU/UK cosmetics label rules under 1223/2009. Don’t assume food FIC sizes. [10, 9]

5. Design & Production Implications

Format trade‑offs (screening)

Format	Strengths	Risks / Watch‑outs
Tube (HDPE/PBL)	Light, squeezable; good dose; HDPE pathway exists.	EVOH % limits; inks/labels affect class; shoulder/cap resin match critical.
Pump (dispensers/airless)	Hygienic dosing; airless protects actives; e‑com‑ready options.	Springs/elastomers compatibility; recyclability blocked unless metal‑free/mono‑PE; cost.
Jar (PP/PMMA/Glass)	Simple UX; wide opening; refill concepts.	Open‑mouth contamination; PMMA ESCR risks; glass weight/breakage.

Manufacturability & artwork

Metallization/heavy foils/dark masterbatches can harm detectability—check APR/OPRL rules.
Prefer polyolefin labels/adhesives on HDPE; avoid PETG sleeves unless perforated.
Use GS1 x‑dim tables; consider tube curvature for scan performance.
Validate via ISTA 3A (parcel) or 6‑Amazon as relevant.

Compatibility flags

PET/PMMA may craze with alcohols/ketones/aromatics/essential oils—screen ESCR.
Elastomers/springs must match pH, solvents, chloride; consider metal‑free pumps.
Barriers: EVOH loses O₂ barrier at high RH—design placement; confirm via D3985/F1249.

Manufacturing note: Run filled‑pack accelerated aging (e.g., 40–50 °C, 75% RH) plus room‑temp long holds to catch ESCR, valve swell, label lift, ink bleed, odor scalping.

6. Sustainability & Compliance Considerations

Recyclability guidance & on‑pack labels

US/APR: Follow APR Design® Guide for HDPE/PP containers & tubes; density < 1.0 for PE.
EU/RecyClass: Tech approvals for HDPE tubes + HDPE caps with controlled EVOH show full compatibility when design levers are met.
UK/OPRL: Pumps/trigger sprays typically not recyclable unless certified; often instruct “remove pump.”
US/How2Recycle: Many pumps are “Not Yet Recyclable”; tube claims depend on specific constructions.

Claims watch: EU Reg. 655/2013 common criteria; US FTC Green Guides interpretations; stay conservative on pumps/laminates.

EPR & fee levers

UK: Report 2024, pay base fees Oct 2025; PPT £223.69/t from 1 Apr 2025 for plastic < 30% PCR.
US: OR operational 2025; ME rules adopted Dec 2024; CO/CA plans/rules in 2025–2026.

Claims risk

Avoid “biodegradable/compostable” without certification & access.
Avoid “recyclable” on pumps unless substantiated (access + sortability + reprocessing).

7. Workflow & Tooling (for PDA tools)

Checklists (abbreviated)

Print‑ready: GS1 barcode x‑dim & quiet zones; INCI order; EU allergens; net quantity by region; RP address; batch/PAO; warnings (21 CFR 740).
Pre‑press: Tube curvature distortion map; inks/foils align to APR/RecyClass rules.
Recyclability: Body/cap resin match; polyolefin labels; sleeve perforations; metal‑free pump? OPRL/How2Recycle alignment.
Compliance: EU PIF; MoCRA listings; GMP (ISO 22716) SOPs.
E‑commerce: ISTA 3A/6‑Amazon pass; DG check for perfumes (UN1266).

Decision trees (sketch)

Label stock/adhesive: If substrate PE/PP → polyolefin label + wash‑off compatible PSA → full sleeve? add perforations → else direct print with preferred inks.
Select pump: Solvents/salts/acids present? → avoid metal springs → pick metal‑free/PE → dose ≥ 1 mL? lotion pump; sensitive actives? airless; need recyclability claim? mono‑PE route.
Tube barrier: O₂‑sensitive actives? → add EVOH within thresholds + light‑shield; else prefer mono‑PE.

Calculator blueprints

Yield (tubes/labels): inputs (web width, repeat, trim); outputs (#‑up, m²/SKU).
Barcode sizing: inputs (printer DPI, x‑dim target, curvature); outputs (min width, quiet zones).
EPR cost model: inputs (mass by component/material/PCR%/color/recyclability grade); outputs (UK base fees + PPT; US state EPR indicative).
Barrier screen: inputs (OTR need, RH/temp, thickness); outputs (film candidate, test spec D3985/F1249).

Template specs (to‑be)

RFQ pack fields: Resin family, PCR %, colorant class, density target (< 1.0 for PE), label/sleeve materials & adhesives, pump spring material (or metal‑free), liner/elastomer type, neck finish, dose/stroke, ISTA level, compliance artifacts (PIF, MoCRA ID).

8. Category‑Specific Guidance (Beauty)

Skin creams/serums

Prefer airless pumps for oxidation‑sensitive actives; for jars, plan micro‑testing, PAO, and scoop accessories.

Hair oils/essential‑oil blends

Avoid PMMA jars/caps; screen PET and PP for ESCR; select compatible elastomers (e.g., FKM where needed); validate with filled‑pack aging.

Fragrances/perfumes

Treat as UN1266 for shipping; Limited Quantity can apply; specific marks/labels required. Secondary packaging must pass ISTA for e‑commerce.

Toothpaste/creams in tubes

HDPE tubes with HDPE caps and controlled EVOH have validated recycling routes (APR/RecyClass). Use Colgate precedent.

9. Case Studies

Case 1 — Colgate HDPE tube (Oral Care)

Problem: Legacy laminate tubes not recyclable in bottle streams.

Approach: Multi‑grade HDPE laminate tuned for squeezability; MRF sortability trials.

Result: APR recognition (2019); scaled roll‑out; “Recycle Me” artwork.

Generalizable: viable for beauty creams/pastes with similar rheology.

Case 2 — Albéa HDPE tube + HDPE flip‑top (EU)

Problem: Achieve EU recyclability with barrier.

Approach: EVOH ~3% with PE tie‑layers; full HDPE system; RecyClass testing.

Result: Full compatibility with colored HDPE stream under conditions.

Case 3 — Metal‑free / mono‑material pumps

Problem: Mixed‑material pumps block recyclability.

Approach: Mono‑PE or spring‑less architectures (e.g., Aptar Future; Silgan ReVive).

Result: Improves compatibility with HDPE/PET recycling (acknowledgments by APR/RecyClass for certain SKUs).

10. Common Pitfalls & Red Flags

Metal spring in otherwise PE/PP system → defeats recyclability.
Using PMMA with oil/alcohol‑rich formulas → stress cracking/crazing.
Large paper labels on HDPE tubes → density/adhesive issues; prefer polyolefin labels.
Assuming fragrance allergen list is 26 → EU now +56; US list pending.
Barcodes too small on curved tubes → GS1 x‑dim not met → scan fails.
Ignoring DG rules for perfumes → refusals/returns; mark UN1266 properly.
Skipping ISTA e‑commerce tests → leakage/returns increase cost & carbon.

15. References

Primary standards, regulations & official guidance

EU PPWR — Regulation (EU) 2025/40 on packaging and packaging waste (OJ).EUR‑Lex
US MoCRA — FDA portal (implementation status; rulemaking incl. fragrance allergens).FDA
EU cosmetics allergen labeling — Commission Reg. (EU) 2023/1545 amending 1223/2009 (Annex III, +56 allergens).EUR‑Lex
UK EPR & PPT — GOV.UK EPR guidance and PackUK base fees; PPT rate £223.69/t from 1 Apr 2025.GOV.UK EPR HMRC PPT
Recyclability design rules — APR Design® Guide; RecyClass DfR & technology approvals for HDPE tubes; OPRL; How2Recycle.APR RecyClass OPRL How2Recycle
Barrier test methods — ASTM D3985 (OTR) and ASTM F1249 (WVTR) method overviews.ASTM D3985 ASTM F1249
ISTA — ISTA 3A (parcel) and 6‑Amazon.com overviews.ISTA 3A ISTA 6
EU cosmetics base law — Reg. (EC) 1223/2009 (cosmetics); ISO 22716 (GMP).EUR‑Lex 1223/2009 ISO 22716
US labeling — 21 CFR 701/740 (cosmetics labeling/warnings); 16 CFR 500 (net quantity statement).21 CFR 701 21 CFR 740 16 CFR 500
GS1 General Specifications — barcode x‑dimension, quiet zones, placement.GS1
Dangerous Goods (perfume) — IATA DGR/ADR UN1266 references.IATA DGR

Secondary technical & converter sources

Silgan ReVive pump outputs & recyclability acknowledgments.
Aptar Future mono‑PE pump (metal‑free pathway).
Poly Print film property tables (WVTR/OTR primers).
Colgate HDPE tube APR recognition & roll‑out notes.

Sidebars

Designer tip: If you can’t avoid a pump, specify mono‑PE metal‑freeand design for easy cap removal.

Compliance watch: EU allergens far beyond 26; US list coming—reserve panel space and version INCI accordingly.

Manufacturing note: Run filled‑pack compatibility at elevated temp/RH; lock elastomers and materials in the BOM.

Evidence gaps & how to close them

Exact OTR needs for specific actives at cosmetic‑use RH/temps: test walls at final thickness & deco.
Public torque/finish tolerances for pump necks: obtain supplier drawings or primary standards.
Real‑world recyclability of pumps at MRF scale in US/UK: third‑party tests + label‑owner pre‑clearance.